SETTING - Yelapa

Many who have visited Yelapa in the past think that they were on an Island. This is because the only access is by boat - one hour south from Puerto Vallarta. Yelapa is actually on the mainland, but is cut off from civilization by the Sierra Madres which push out into the ocean cutting of this fishing village, along with a host of other communities up and down the coast. There is a mule trail connecting Yelapa with the road at Bocca, but it is a very difficult journey, even for those who know the way over the mountains. The photograph at right shows the first glimpse of the mountains around Yelapa as the boat approaches with our first group.

Charles MacInerney has been taking groups twice a year on retreats in the village of Yelapa. He first came to Yelapa in February of 1998 to stay at Casa Milagros. Although the center was very nice, it was the entire village and the valley that participants fell in love with. It is the very fact that it is cut off from civilization, from cars, phones and email, that makes life in Yelapa so appealing for a Yoga retreat. The only distractions are the beauty, the ocean, the flowers, the birds, and a simpler way of life.

The photo at left shows the first view of Yelapa, as the boat rounds the corner before entering the bay.

When the host of the retreat center lost his lease at Casa Milagros, Charles decided to return to Yelapa anyway, and secured rooms at the beach hotel for his third retreat in 1999. Once again, participants loved the experience of living in a fishing village without electricity or traffic or roads, and forgave the difficulties of hosting a retreat out of a hotel.

Then in December of 2000 Charles and his partner Patricia convinced April (the wonderful cook and hostess from Casa Milagros) to help her friends, Sam & Jarrett, convert their private residence into a retreat center on two months notice. In a flurry of activity it was done, and Los Naranjos hosted its first retreat - Charles and Patricias Yoga & Creative Writing Retreat - in February 2000.

Even before Sam and Jarrett fixed up their center, Los Naranjos was known by all the locals as the most beautiful spot in all of Yelapa, and there are those who visit who say that is being far too modest. For more information about the retreat center click here.

All of this trouble just to keep our retreats in Yelapa? When you visit Yelapa, you understand why. Yelapa is a step back in time to a simpler way of life, before tv's, email, cars or motorcycles. The sounds of traffic consist of hoofs of the dirt roads and the braying of donkeys. Alarm clocks are replaced by roosters, less accurate perhaps, but much more enthusiastic.

A thousand years ago, Yelapa was the meeting place for Indian tribes who have long since disappeared. They would gather here every summer from a hundred miles in all directions to celebrate together, trade, exchange news, and arrange marriages. Visitors soon see why they chose to come here from so far away. The photograph on the right shows the Rio Tuito River, and the valley it has carved out of the mountains. In the foreground, a woman washes her laundry.

The Village of Yelapa was once primarily a fishing village. It still boasts a strong fishing tradition but visitors have replaced fish as the main source of income for the village.

Most day visitors never get past the beach and so never discover the wonderful Village or experience the simplicity of life before electricity and internal combustion engines. When you see the Beach you will understand how people could forget that there is more to Yelapa than sand, water, scenery, fresh sea-food and margaritas.

While exploring the village, visitors should be sure to visit the Village Waterfall, a short 10 minute walk through a tropical valley from downtown Yelapa.

For the more adventurous, there are trails leading up the valley into the mountains that lead past a series of rapids to a string of remote and magnificent High Waterfalls. This trip is best accomplished with a guide, and takes a minimum of 4 hours.

For those wishing to extend their stay in Yelapa, or visit on their own, here are some links to useful information to help you plan your trip.